All Chef Should Study Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.

Tracy Summers
Tracy Summers

Elara Voss is a cultural anthropologist and freelance writer, passionate about uncovering human stories that bridge divides.